Photos: Daniel Ercsey

Today marks the start of GROW du Monde, the unofficial world championship of Italian Riesling, in Mikulov, located in southern Bohemia—or more precisely, in Moravia. The town is a true Baroque (and Renaissance) gem; the German speakers may know it better as Nikolsburg. Its castle perched on a rocky cliff (which is quite monumental given the town’s size), its imposing main square, the “Holy Hill” towering over the town with a chapel at its summit, not to mention the vast Jewish cemetery and the synagogue, are well worth a stop—or even two days.

Next to the Upper Synagogue (which still stands today; the name “Upper” stems from the fact that Nikolsburg once had 12 synagogues serving a congregation of 3,000 people, comprising roughly half the town’s population), enterprising businesspeople operate a hotel and restaurant called Tanzberg (there’s even cholent on the menu!), as well as a pub, named directly after the Golem, which is widely known to have been created in Prague by Rabbi Jehuda Lőw, originally from Nikolsburg.

Yesterday’s brief city tour was capped off by a tasting (masterclass?) following dinner, where our colleague Michal Setka sought to impress us with a selection of Czech wines.

Bohemia Sekt Prestige Rosé NV I 87 points

Pale salmon color. Aromas of coconut (!), strawberry, and a hint of raspberry. Elegant structure, long effervescence, a slight bitterness at the finish that detracts from the elegance.

Bohemia Sekt Prestige 36 2020 I 92 points

Medium lemon color. On the nose, sweet biscuit, mandarin, peach, and chalky minerality. On the palate, medium body, mouth-filling structure, fine bubbles, and a long effervescence. Flavors of green apple, pear, lemon zest, and biscuit again, with a distinctly long finish.

Ceska zemedelska univerzita v Praze, Ryzlink rynsky 2023 I 86 points

Very pale, almost water-clear lemon color. The aroma features pear and white flowers. A light and lively sip with green apple and pear. Tight, with a finish that ends on a note of salty lemon.

Vinarstvi Soman, Veltinské zelené GEO 2024 I 90 points

A lemon color deeper than medium. The aroma features a hint of smoke, meat, sandalwood, peach, hazelnut, pear, and white pepper. On the palate, it has a medium-plus body, a creamy texture, and yet lively acids; the finish is distinctly long and spicy.

Farma U tri dubu, Pálava Reserve 2022 I 87 points

Medium lemon color. The aroma is sweetish and perfumed, with notes of overripe cantaloupe, honey, and yellow flowers. On the palate, it has a medium body, elegant structure, lively acidity, and predominantly Muscat flavors, complemented by a hint of lychee. A classic Pálava with a very long finish.

Vinarstvi Zamecnik, Ryzlink vlassky 2024 (Bergrus) I 90 points

Pale lemon color. On the nose, ripe pear, apple, and white flowers, with a hint of clay in the background. On the palate, it has a taut, crystal-clear structure, lively acidity, and green apple flavors. The modern face of Welschriesling, carved in marble.

Vinarstvi Volarik, Ryzlink vlassky 2023 (Zelezna) I 94 points

A lemon color deeper than medium. On the nose, pear, wild rose, a hint of botrytis, and pollen. On the palate, lively acids yet deep and ripe flavors, lush and complex, while the sip vibrates throughout. In the finish, dried citrus and the botrytis character reappear.

Vinarstvi Mikrosvín, Ryzlink vlassky 2023 (Orechova Hora) I 95 points

Medium lemon color. On the nose, pear and mint, sunflower seeds and pollen. On the palate, full-bodied yet astonishingly elegant, with lively acids and an endless finish. There is a spherical completeness to the entire wine—nothing to fault!

Vino J. Stavek, BlaBla 2023 I 87 points

A blend made from two PIWI clones of Kékfrankos (Stelar & Signum). Deep crimson color. Aromas of graphite, violet, plum, sour cherry, and sweet spices. On the palate, it has a medium body with juicy, bite-sized fruitiness. Unfortunately, a hole in the middle of the sip detracts from its enjoyment value.

Vinasrtvi Plesingr, Pinot Noir 2019 I 89 points

A ruby color lighter than medium. Aromas of plum, fallen leaves, and cherry, with a sweetish spice profile in the background. On the palate, a lighter-than-medium body, classic “Pinot” structure, good acidity, and a long finish. Unfortunately, the woody notes intensify in the flavor profile and overwhelm the raspberry fruitiness.

Vinarstvi B/V, Frankovka Reserve 2018 I 90 points

Medium ruby color. The aroma features ripe black and red berries. On the palate, it has a body slightly above medium, with ripe and lush, yet lively acidity. Good balance, long finish—a particularly easy-drinking Frankovka.

As for the Welschriesling category, all three entries were single-vineyard selections, and I have a sneaking suspicion that our dear Czech friends staged a sort of show of strength before the competition to let us know where we stand. (I’m joking, of course.) I have great confidence in the Hungarian samples, but one thing is certain: they won’t have an easy time of it…