Ion Luca is the reigning Winemaker of the Year in Moldova, which is quite an achievement at such a young age. There is nothing fancy about the winery, with the tanks upstairs and the barrel aging room downstairs, but it is spotlessly clean, which is standard nowadays. It is a small family estate, only 10.5 hectares, planted with Feteasca Neagra, Rara Neagra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Viorica, Chardonnay, Feteasca Alba, and Feteasca Regala.
According to Ion, they had a wonderful Chinese market before Covid, which they lost, but he is not despairing and is constantly looking for new markets. Currently, his wines are available in about forty countries, with an annual production of 85,000 bottles.
Casa Vinocola Luca Brut Nature I 91 points
100% Feteasca Regala. Deep lemon color. According to Ion, the first BN in the country. Tiny bubbles, restrained aroma, white flowers. Medium body, elegant acids, tight structure. The taste is of white-fleshed fruits, bone dry yet round on the palate with a long finish. Wow!
Viorica 2023 I 86 points
Medium lemon color. Perfumed, slightly soapy aroma, like an Irsai Olivér. The body is thinner than medium, with round acids, perfumed apple and lemon peel flavors, and a tonic bitterness at the end of the sip. The finish is medium.
Orange viorica 2023 I 88 points
Spent six months on the skins, pure Georgia feeling! Pale gold color, with aromas of grapes, wildflowers, thyme, and pear. Medium body on the palate, round acids, tight structure, barely noticeable tannins. Floral on the palate and finish. Exciting!
Rara Neagră 2019 I 90 points
Pale garnet color. Aroma of cherries, strawberries, strawberry jam. Light and lively on the palate, a real fruit bomb, beautiful! Medium-thin body, lively acids, like a super pinot noir! Wow!
Feteasca Neagră 2020 I 91 points
Deep ruby color with garnet reflections. Aroma of dark chocolate, plum, and sweet spices. Medium body on the palate, lively acids, lots of spice in every sip. The fruit is crisp, sweet, but not jammy, with a long, vibrant finish.
As is well known, the Moldovan wine revolution began in 2006 when Moscow imposed an embargo on Moldovan wines. It seemed that this would spell the end of the Moldovan wine business, but thanks to producers such as Ion Luca, the sector quickly found its feet.
"The best thing that could have happened to us was the Russian embargo in 2006," says Ion. "Without it, the world would still not know us, and we would still be bottling semi-sweet, sometimes oxidized junk. It was time for a change, even if it was painful."
