Photos: Daniel Ercsey
Fresh, citrus-driven, packed with green apple flavours and equally at home on its own or in a spritz—what wine fits the description? The answer is Pušipel, the local name for Furmint in Croatia's Međimurje wine region. Bottled under its traditional identity rather than its Hungarian grape name, it is quietly finding an audience among wine drinkers eager to discover something new.
Rather than compiling another comprehensive survey of the region—as I did on my previous visit—I wanted to explore four different faces of Pušipel. In my mind the tasting naturally divided into four styles: sparkling, fresh and youthful, bottle-aged, and barrique-aged. The reality, however, proved somewhat less inspiring. With one notable exception, these wines failed to live up to their ambitions. Viewed from a Hungarian perspective, Tokaj and its Furmints have little to fear. Yet the growing international preference for fresher, lighter, high-acid wines suggests that Croatia's northern Furmints/Pušipels deserve attention. They may not yet rival the finest examples from Tokaj, but they occupy a stylistic niche that increasingly resonates with modern consumers.
Perhaps the biggest surprise came from the producer I had previously considered my favourite in Međimurje. This time, the wine finished near the bottom of the ranking—a reminder that vintage variation matters here as much as anywhere else. Conversely, another wine from an older vintage exceeded expectations. The tasting's clear winner was the Horvat K-32, a barrique-aged Pušipel from a winery that was entirely new to me. Judging by the technical details alone, it seemed destined to be my least favourite style. Instead, it emerged as the bottle I enjoyed the most.
Međimurje is worth visiting for far more than its vineyards. The elegant Baroque centre of Varaždin remains the region's cultural jewel, while nearby Čakovec, the Slovenian border and the Jeruzalem-Ormož wine region, as well as Lendava Castle (Slovenia) and the romantic Trakošćan Castle (Croatia), are all comfortably within reach. During my latest visit I finally explored Trakošćan—a place every bit as impressive as its reputation suggests.
Štampar Pjenušac Urban White Extra Brut 2022 I 82-84 points
Deep lemon in colour with golden highlights. The mousse is energetic but short-lived, with unusually large bubbles. Biscuit and freshly baked bread mingle with yeasty notes and ripe peach on the nose. Full-bodied, with soft, rounded acidity and a slightly rustic texture. Biscuit, yeast and mineral nuances continue on the palate, although the finish fades rather quickly and lacks a little definition.
Kunčić Pušipel Classic 2024 I 85-86 points
11.7% alc | 6.2 g/l acidity | 5 g/l residual sugar
Pale lemon in colour. The restrained bouquet reveals delicate hints of green apple, pear, white blossom and a subtle powdery floral note. Medium-bodied, with rounded acidity softened by a touch of residual sugar. Apple and pear dominate the palate, producing a straightforward but highly approachable wine. Pleasant, balanced and easy to drink, finishing with moderate length.
Cmrečnjak Pušipel Maderka 2023 I 84-86 points
12.5% alc | 6 g/l acidity | 2 g/l residual sugar | Acacia barrel-aged
Deep lemon shading towards pale gold. The nose shows noticeable bottle development with dried apricot, dehydrated apple, yellow flowers and an intriguing savoury character recalling dill and even pickled cucumber. Medium-plus in body, with broad, rounded acidity that gives the wine a rather languid feel. Ripe, almost overripe fruit is accompanied by notes of sunflower seeds and stewed apricot. Thankfully, the acidity reasserts itself towards the finish, bringing welcome freshness in the form of orange and mandarin citrus. A wine that has already moved beyond its peak.
Horvat Pušipel K-32 2021 I 89-91 points
12% alc | 7 g/l acidity | 3 g/l residual sugar
Medium lemon colour. Oak immediately takes centre stage, offering aromas of fresh timber, sweet spice, black pepper and clove, supported by quince and crisp apple. The palate is medium to full-bodied with an impressively taut structure. Fine-grained tannins provide grip, while vibrant acidity keeps the wine energetic and focused throughout. Barrel spices remain the dominant flavour profile, but they are balanced by lively fruit and impressive freshness. The finish is persistent, layered and confidently structured. Complex, harmonious and unquestionably the standout wine of the tasting.
